"(...) Lisbon is a great place for serendipitous wandering: you don't stick around for long In one bat; one restaurant, one shop, one street, one fado room. Hedonists will, however; stick to just one district. Sublime, gorgeously decadent, hectically multifaceted, the Bairro Alto Is a grid of seven long avenues and a dozen lateral streets in which you can wander all weekend.

Rossio is the bustling heart of the city traversed all day by tourists, people watchers. Crossing the main square is an experience, because the cobblestones - ranged in a wavy mosaic pattern -wobble before your eyes like a Bridget Riley painting and disorientate you until you require a little sit-down at the Suiça Pastelaria, for a coffee and one of the little custard tarts (pasteis de nata) that are a city favourite.

The third landmark is Castelo de São Jorge, whose battlements can be seen from all over the city. Today, when you walkthrough the great archway and into the gardens, you're in the ancient heart of Lisbon, where an Iron Age settlement was occupied, in turn, by Romans, Visigoths and Moors. But it's good to walk around the walls, to see how the city's districts fit together; marvelling at the river Tagus. (...)"